Gaspé is a port town and the industrial and administrative center of the Gaspé Peninsula, which juts out of the St. Lawrence River. The north shore of the peninsula becomes increasingly dramatic as you venture further east until you reach the port of Gaspé. In this region, the perennial scene is of the sea clashing against dramatic cliffs and of tiny fishing villages snuggled into rocky coves. The region is charmingly steeped in the history of its French, Acadian, Loyalist, Scottish, and Irish founders.[1]
Bounded by the vast estuary of the St. Lawrence River in the north and the Baie des Chaleurs (“Bay of Warmth”) in the south, the Gaspé Peninsula is a landmass formed thousands of years ago. It rises out of the thick forests of the Chic-Choc Mountains and is part of the Appalachian chain. It boasts the highest altitudes in the province with peaks reaching as high as 4,000 feet above sea level. The uplands and river valleys of the Chic-Choc offer some of the best salmon fishing and deer and moose hunting in the world. Meanwhile, some of the most dramatic scenery in the country can be seen in the peninsula’s wild north coast. From Matane to Percé, a boulder-strewn coastline is interrupted frequently by tiny fishing villages. The south shore has a gentler and warmer coastline, but is still similarly dotted with small farming and fishing communities.
The most striking characteristic about the Gaspé, however, besides the stunning scenery is the overpowering sense of isolation. It is geographically isolated from the rest of Canada. The villages themselves are disconnected from one another, even though they are only a few miles apart. Villagers are also isolated from the 21st century, going about their way as fishermen, craftsmen, and merchants – completely oblivious to a different way of life. From generation to generation, they follow in the footsteps of their forefathers with “stubborn respect for tradition”. This simplicity is what makes the Gaspé such an enchanting place to visit.[2]
Attractions
While the Gaspé Peninsula is full of tourist appeal, the port town itself does not have much to offer travelers other than its sites of historical significance. Gaspé, after all, claims the honor of being the site where Jacques Cartier first landed on North American soil. Cartier claimed the peninsula in the name of the King of France. This event is commemorated by a monument featuring bas-relief scenes of the explorer’s journey.[3]
Musée de la Gaspésie
The Musée de la Gaspésie (or Gaspé Museum) is where you can spend a couple of hours learning about the history of the Gaspé Peninsula. The museum is near the Cartier monument and overlooks the bay where three Atlantic salmon rivers converge. This same bay is a popular fishing spot. Visitors can arrange with the government office for permission to fish here.[4]
Parc National Forillon
Just outside of Gaspé is perhaps the town’s greatest draw, the Parc National Forillon (or National Forillon Park), which sits at the northeastern tip of the peninsula jutting out into the gulf. The park covers an area of 92 square miles (or 238 square kilometers) that includes a spectacular coastline and a forest that abounds with wildlife. The north side of the coastline features steep limestone cliffs, pebble beaches, and impressive headlines where seals and whales can be spotted. The park’s flora and fauna is rich and diverse. Black bears, moose, and lynx are among some of the wildlife you’ll see. The park is also a great place to embrace a few outdoor leisure activities such as fishing, scuba diving, and whale watching. Boat trips can be taken to island bird sanctuaries or to seal colonies. There are also hiking trails, nature walks, and beaches where you can relax and get a breath of ocean breeze. In the winter, the hiking trails are used for snowshoeing and cross-country skiing.[5]
Food
It comes as no surprise that the Gaspé is known for its seafood. Gaspésian restaurants and cafes feature menus lined with seafood entrees that are priced inexpensively and prepared to perfection. The specialty of Gaspésian cuisine is cod tongues, which are battered and delivered in a subtle flavor. Locals and travelers alike can head to one of the excellent fisheries, pick up some smoked fish, and go for a picnic somewhere along the coast.[6]
History
The Vikings were probably the first European visitors to the Gaspé, arriving some time during the 11th century. Four hundred years later, they were followed by the Basque fishermen. These people were lured into the region by its rich fishing grounds. In 1534, Jacques Cartier landed on the present-day city of Gaspé, where a small band of Micmac Indians were living at the time. Cartier built a tall wooden cross and erected it atop a hill overlooking the bay and then claimed the gulf on behalf of France. The Indians must have been bewildered.[7]
Cartier named the region Gaspéche after the Indian word “Gaspeg”, which means “land’s end”. However, settlement did not really occur until the early 17th century when French fishermen set up coastal villages along the peninsula. These communities survived the harsh and primitive conditions thanks to the rich harvest of fish in the area. More settlers reinforced these communities in the mid-1700s when the British captured Nova Scotia and expelled the Acadians. About the same time, English settlers encroached into the south coast setting up communities that were later augmented by the arrival of Loyalists following the American Revolution.[8]
Since then, however, time has stood still. A few ripples of immigrants from Ireland and Scotland have changed very little. Village life remains the same the last 250 years: “cling to the coast, and the sea will provide”. This formula has been effective. The peninsula has not only provided fish in abundance, but also loots from shipwrecks caused by Gaspé’s rocky coastline. Entire villages, in fact, have been founded by shipwreck survivors using the equipment and goods salvaged from their vessels. And when there were no survivors, residents of nearby villages would help themselves to the rich cargos.[9]
Today, there are no longer any shipwrecks, roaming Micmac Indians, or primitive plumbing, but the Gaspé still remains unspoiled in many ways by the modern world.[10]
How to Get There
The best way to get to Gaspé is by driving. From Montreal or Quebec City, you can take the Trans-Canada Highway (Route 20) eastbound and reach Rivière du Loup. From there, you take Route 132, which is a coastal highway that makes a loop of the Gaspé Peninsula. Alternatively, if you are traveling from New Brunswick, you can take Route 11 and 17. Both converge at the Quebec border on Campbellton. From there, you cross over to connect with Route 132.[11]
References:
Carroll, Donald. Insider’s Guide Canada. Edison: Hunter Publishing, Inc, 1996. ISBN: 1556507100.
Simpkins, Mary Ann. Canada. New York: Prentice Hall Travel, 1994. ISBN: 0671882783.
[1] Simpkins, 144, 146
[2] Carroll, 275
[3] Id. at 278
[4] Id.
[5] Id. at 277-78
[6] Id. at 281, 283
[7] Id. at 276
[8] Id.
[9] Id.
[10] Id.
[11] Id. at 283
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